I am not a nationalist (and I do hope my primary teachers never find out about that… but that’s material for a different story). Now that we got that out of the way: one of my favorite things to do this time of the year is take pictures. Independence day celebrations (15-16th of September… but I ain’t no one to ruin your Cinco fun, US friends!) mark the start of my favorite season of the year. When people in other countries bring out the crockpot and start eating pumpkin soup, Mexicans make it all bright green and red for a few days.
I like pumpkin, and I’m not sure bright green is my thing. But I do like taking pictures on the street on the 15th of September. It all started when I was 16 or 17 and I was feeling artsy and I started taking pictures downtown just out of curiosity. The end.
But yes. Mexicans make it all bright and green and red for the first days of September.
(Themselves included.)
They also eat a lot of things that are way more fattening than supersized chili with cornbread. But, again, that is material for a different story.
They also happen to think some big and hairy thoughts. I’m not going to pretend national holidays turn anyone into a godless cancer patient, but I do think that seeing lots of red and green everywhere (along with all the folkloric performances and tequila) makes people wonder what it means to be Mexican, or what it means to celebrate our independence.
Maybe it’s just that straw is a good Thinking Hat material.
(If only Kant had known… Can you imagine formulations of the Categorical Imperative that involved straw hats?)
I think it is not uncommon to admit that, in many of these ‘What does it mean to be Mexican?’ thought processes, it’s easier for people to focus on the bad than on the good. It’s easier to focus on corruption and crime. It’s easier to focus on what you don’t have than on what you do have. But, in my perception, pessimism keeps reaching new lows in this corner of the world.
Last year, these celebrations were particularly special, as it was the 200th anniversary of the beginning of the Independence War. A big subject of debate was whether it was right to celebrate the Independence of a country that was losing a war against narcotraffic, against crime, against blood, against impunity. My article for the ICRC contest was on the different opinions people displayed on Twitter in regards to this subject.
But truth is there was a celebration, despite it all. Even if many chose not to celebrate, a good chunk chose to fill the streets. I made sure to witness it and leave evidence of it online.
This year, it felt different. And I’m using a wishy-washy term here because I don’t feel justified in saying it was different. I don’t have metrics to prove that there was less of a celebration this year than in any year I recall; it’s just my perception of things.
The central square where I like taking pictures was virtually empty compared to what I’ve seen in other years, despite the good weather and available entertainment. I couldn’t sense the enthusiasm I did in the past. It seemed that people were there to see, rather than to engage.
Tonight’s broadcast of the official celebration was underwhelming in a way, too. For fifteen minutes, it felt like the hosts in the biggest broadcasting company were struggling to transmit the enthusiasm that they were expected to. A good chunk of this time was devoted to citing reasons why Mexicans are to love their Mexicanity. Simple things all Mexicans can relate to.
On social media, this year I saw a lot more complaints about celebrating independence than I did last year. But I think this is less relevant, as my consumption of social media is to a great extent determined by my social circle.
“Mexico. Let’s celebrate EVERYDAY HEROES” – courtesy of the government, as pictured above. “Let’s be proud of ourselves because we started a country, and because we have kickass dishes” – courtesy of the biggest TV channel. And statements like these led others to ask, once again, if celebration was justified.
To me, this discussion is temporarily buried, as it feels like tonight’s celebration was more of a deep breath full of desperation, uncertainty, pessimism, apathy, ennui.
Now, people tend to get killed and hung for speaking of What Must Not Be Spoken About, and truth is I just want to share today’s pictures. So, for those inclined for reflections on Mexico and violence, here is my now favorite blog-source on the topic: Global Voices’ Blog Carnival on Mexico, Citizenry, Violence and Blogs.
For those of you who are shallow as I am, have some green and red!
First, in the form of merchandise.
Carts selling flags and related goodies invade Mexican streets for the first 15 days of September.
This year I spotted the first ones on the 30th of August or so. And that’s fine… as long as they don’t think that it’s okay to start selling these right after Christmas!
A man who sold popsicles among the crowd. Green are lime; red are strawberry; white are… I have no idea. But brown are tamarind.
No, I did not have any, as my caloric budget was being saved for all I would eat later in the day.
I told you Mexicans turn it all green and red for the occasion.
Next up: the entertainment!
Trivia time: what characters are these performers alluding to?
This band was playing danzón, a type of music and dance that was born in Cuba (but survived mostly in Mexico).
I think it’s endearing that granddad and granddaughter would spend time together by dancing.
My grandma used to dance danzón in her youth, but she’s never taught me. I hope this girl will teach her grandchildren.
But my favorite part is seeing what people decide to wear that day.
She seemed surprised when I asked her if I could take her picture.
She seemed more surprised when these ten-year-olds asked her if they could take her picture.
This beautiful girl was dressed in a China Poblana dress (traditional Puebla wear for women, which is a mixture of local tradition with Chiapas embroidery), and her grandma and dad were happy not only to let me take a picture of her… they even offered to take one of me with her. And that made me smile.
I was wearing an indigenous Chiapas top there, too.
She wore a dress from the state of Hidalgo.
And this beautiful lady wore a bright dress from Jalisco.
This caballero decided to keep it simple: an outfit (and facial hair) inspired by revolutionary fashion.
Yes. He may have been holding an obnoxiously loud object, but his photo pose is serene and elegant. The Sartorialist would be proud.
But not everyone appeals to long-gone traditions.
These ladies went for the Mexican football T-shirt look.
With matching lollipops.
And a healthy reality check: this is an indigenous lady from Oaxaca; specifically, from the community in San Juan Copala. We may celebrate independence, but many people probably wonder what independence we’re celebrating. She probably is one of them (and she is justified).
Should we celebrate? I don’t know that this question matters as much as we seem to think it does. After all, when we try to go against traditions, they know how to put up a good fight.
I guess it is only when people stop trying to fight them that their death becomes likely.
Leaving nationalism aside again, I hope things change for the better in this place. I think a lot would be lost if these celebrations went gentle into that good night.
Next up: Independence food.